bail kook!
Malibu, 2010.
Ahhh, localism. A favorite past time for surfers who live within the defined jurisdiction of said localized surf spot. You can liken it to a dog pissing to mark his or her territory. However, at some point in life, you often start to realize the absurdity of it all, but there is a certain animalistic second nature that thrives and comes alive when some kook you have never seen before burns you at the wave you call your own.
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Jesse
Jesse Billauer’s story is motivational. In 1996, when he was only 17 years old and on his way to becoming a pro surfer, Jesse was paralyzed while surfing Zuma, my local beach break, rendering him a quadriplegic.
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le gallerista
Gallerista #11. Chelsea, New York 2009.
In the spring of last year, my friend Brendan Lynch (who you should check out his work site and rad image collection blog) and I had several discussions about the gallery viewing experience. When you enter, you often see this 20-something peering over a tall counter, giving you her attention only for a fraction of a second before returning to whatever important task she must be doing behind that counter.
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HAZE
This past week, the legendary Haze came through LA to do a show at the new Known Gallery space on Fairfax. I had the opportunity to hang with him a bit, interview him, and shoot some photos of him doing work.
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